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First the history: the Oregon Trail, Pony Express, transcontinental railroad, Homestead National Monument and Willa Cather's home town of Red Cloud. The wide open spaces and dramatic skies of the plains, the fireflies at night (which I had never seen before). The Niobrara River in the north was unexpectedly beautiful and the Sand Hills country was rich in Indian history and seemingly just waiting for a return of the buffalo herds.