But for me the reason to stop at la Soledad is to gaze on the remaining mud walls. There is something terribly melancholy about these silent reminders of our mortality, and the futility of efforts to build and improve. The Spanish fathers are long gone, and so are the Indian neophytes in fact their entire world has vanished. Only the mud bricks remain, and they grow smaller and softer in outline every year. The walls were noticeably taller when I first went there, thirty years ago. A few more decades and there will only be lines of stones to mark their location.